SKU: 19776433116
wildflower seed mix ohio

wildflower seed mix ohio MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIX

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Description

wildflower seed mix ohio MIDWEST WILDFLOWER MIXMidwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~ Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KYml, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom.~~~

Midwest Wildflower Seed Mix is formulated for IL, IN, IA, eastern KS, KY, MI, MN, MO, eastern NE, OH, WI, southern Manitoba, and Ontario. This wildflower seed mix is blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season, therefore we have included spring, summer, and fall blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

Product Information

  • Application or Use: Ornamental, Lawn, Cover Crop, Erosion Control
  • Germination Time: 14 - 21 days, under optimal conditions
  • Growing Locations: Transition Zone & Cool Season
  • Height: 2 - 4 feet
  • Sunlight Requirements: 8+ hours, full sun for best results
  • Advantages: Perfectly blended for the Midwest U.S.
  • When to Plant: See Instructions Tab.

**This mix is Non-GMO**

This mix contains the following seed. *Mixture is subject to change depending on seed availability*

  • Lanceleaf Coreopsis
  • Purple Coneflower
  • Blue Flax
  • California Poppy
  • Clasping Coneflower
  • Plains Coreopsis
  • Calendula
  • Black Eyed Susan
  • Rocket Larkspur
  • Mixed Colors Corn Poppy

This mix may vary depending on harvest and availability.


*Product packaging may appear different than what is pictured. ~~~

 Wildflower Planting Time Based on Region:

Southeast

  • Fall, Winter: Sowing wildflowers in Fall/Winter is the ideal time in the Southeast, with October 1 – December 31 being the best dates. The weather is ideal for starting seeds, and seedlings can grow and harden off before frost.
  • Spring: A good time to plant wildflowers, especially annual species that flower quickly. Plant after the last frost date when soil temperatures have warmed to around 55°F, typically occurring within a month or so after the final frost of winter; this ensures the seeds can germinate properly without being affected by cold weather.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Southwest

  • Fall: A good time to plant spring wildflowers in the desert Southwest. Fall's cooler temperatures and seasonal rains help seeds germinate. In the mountains, you can plant after spring frosts.
  • Winter: In areas that get snow, winter seeding can give seeds an advantage in the spring. 
  • Spring: A popular time to plant wildflowers in most states. You can plant after the last frost and when the soil temperature is at least 55°F. In warmer climates, you can plant at the end of the rainy season.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Northeast

  • Fall, Winter: The best time to plant wildflowers in the Northeast is in late fall, after the first frost but before heavy snow. This is known as dormant seeding and can take place from November to December. Cold temperatures and damp soil during the winter help wildflower seeds germinate. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring, after the ground has thawed and soil temperatures reach around 55-65°F. This is a popular time to plant wildflowers because it's typically rainier, which helps water seedlings. 
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Midwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Western

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

Pacific Northwest

  • Fall, Winter: Plant in late fall (November–December) after the first frost. The seeds will overwinter and germinate in the spring. Fall planting is a good option for cooler climates and can give the seeds an early start in the spring. 
  • Spring: Plant in early spring (April–May) after the last frost when the soil temperature is consistently above 55°F. Spring is a popular time to plant because the soil is usually moist from rain, and you can see the wildflowers grow right away.
  • Summer: In cooler zones with higher elevation, you can plant wildflowers in late spring to early summer, after the risk of frost has passed. You can plant wildflower seeds in the summer, but the hot sun can dry out the soil and stress your seedlings. Summer is a good time to plant quick-growing annual wildflowers.

 

More on wildflower mixtures and plantings:

Our wildflower mixtures are formulated on the basis of climatic conditions (rainfall, temperature range, humidity) and elevation. Most species in our mixtures adapt readily to different soil types, provided climate and elevation are suitable. Annuals have been included to establish cover quickly and to give color the first year; some may produce new plants the following year (the biennials may also reseed). Perennial plants live for more than two years, and most flower from the second year onward.

These mixtures are blended to give the widest possible range of colors and periods of bloom. Very few wildflowers bloom continually throughout the season; therefore, we have included Spring, Summer and Fall-blooming species in each mixture. Colors include blue, purple, red, white, yellow and pink. Mix heights vary from 10 in. to 8 ft.

In general, our mixtures are formulated to contain approximately equal numbers of seeds of each species. This varies somewhat because of costs, availability and/or climatic conditions. Mixtures may vary occasionally from the indicated listing, based on availability of individual species.

Seed Quality:

Most wildflower seeds and mixtures have a purity of 95 to 99% and total viable seed percentages of between 70 to 95%. The total viable seed percent is the germination percent, plus the hard seed or dormant seed percent. Hard seeds have impermeable seed coats and cannot imbibe water during seed testing. Dormant seeds are viable seeds that have specific physical or physiological conditions that prevent the seed from germinating at the time of seed testing. The PLS (Pure Live Seed) is obtained by multiplying the percent purity by the percent total viable seed and then dividing by 100.

Uses of Grasses:

Wildflowers can be sown alone or with grasses. For most areas of the United States, we recommend using one of our native grass mixtures. For specific requirements, individual species may be preferred. Hard Fescue or Sheep Fescue work well in most areas of the United States. However, in the southeastern states of Alabama, Florida, Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi and South Carolina, we recommend warm-season grasses; Hard and Sheep Fescue will not thrive in these climates.

Warm-season grasses to consider include Gramas, Buffalo Grass and Bluestems. These grasses grow very slowly and are planted for aesthetic and ecological reasons rather than prompt stabilization of soil.

Aggressive grasses should be avoided because they will crowd out most wildflowers; these grasses include Kentucky Bluegrass, Smooth Brome, Crested Wheatgrass, Bermuda Grass, and Annual Rye. If wildflowers must be used with these grasses, the flowers should be planted in high-density patches as accents to the grassed areas. Or the flowers may be sown with the grasses if the planting rates of the grasses are reduced significantly.~~~

Plant at a rate of 40 to 44 lbs. per acre (1 lb. per 1,000 sq. ft.).

Sowing wildflower seeds without care and planning usually produces unsatisfactory results. Here are some important factors to consider: Does the site support plants now? If you have a site where nothing, including weeds, is growing, that site is unlikely to support wildflowers. Will there be adequate moisture during germination and establishment? Can you supply supplemental water, if necessary? What weed seeds are likely to be present in the soil? Will weeds spread to your site from adjacent areas? Assessment of these factors will enable you to make a realistic choice of a site where wildflowers will prosper and to decide what action will be necessary to ensure your success.

When to Plant:

The best time to plant in your area depends on the climate and rainfall patterns as well as the species you are planting. In cool climates, plant annuals, perennials or mixtures of annuals and perennials in Spring, early Summer or late Fall. Fall plantings should be late enough so that seeds do not germinate until Spring. Perennials can also be sown in early fall provided that there are at least 10 to 12 weeks of growing time before the plants go dormant for the Winter. Late Fall plantings are advantageous when supplemental irrigation cannot be provided and adequate rainfall is anticipated in the spring.

In mild climates, plant during the cooler months of the year, fall through spring, for best results. Fall plantings done prior to periods of rainfall will insure an early display of flowers the following Spring.

Site Preparation:

Proper site preparation is important for prompt germination of seed and healthy growth of seedlings. Best results will be obtained by planting on cleared ground. Remove existing vegetation to avoid competition from other plants. This may be done by pulling, tilling under, spraying with a general herbicide, or by a combination of these methods, depending upon the size of the area, type and density of vegetation and other factors. Loosen soil by scraping, tilling or scarifying. Tilling should be utilized only when soil is very compacted and further weed control measures can be taken. Specific recommendations are given under the heading, Weed Control.

Seed Application:

Method of application depends on the size of the area and the terrain. On small areas, broadcast seeds evenly either by hand or by use of a drop or cyclone spreader. It is helpful to mix a carrier such as clean, dry sand with the seed; sand adds volume and aids in even distribution. We recommend using a ratio of 1 or 2 parts sand to 1 part seed. Rake in lightly, covering seeds to a maximum depth of 2 to 3 times their thickness. Or drag the area lightly with a piece of chain link fence to mix the seed into the surface of the soil. For seeding large areas, i.e., over one acre, specially-designed drills are most effective. Drill to a maximum of 1/4 in. and firm soil with a cultipacker. This maximizes seed-to-soil contact. Hydroseeders are also effective, especially for steep slopes, rocky terrain and other areas where conditions make it impractical for other methods of seed application.

Hydroseeding is the application of a slurry of seed and water to soil. The slurry may also contain mulch (hydromulching), a tackifier and fertilizer. Mulches are made of wood fiber, paper or excelsior, and their purpose is to hold seeds in place, help retain moisture and provide protection from erosion (mulches are usually dyed green as a visual aid in even distribution). Rates of application for most mulches are between 1,500 and 2,300 pounds per acre. In general, hydroseeding or hydromulching is most successful in moist climates or in irrigated areas.

Most authorities agree that germination is better when seed is applied first with 5 to 10% of the mulching fiber; the balance of the mulch being applied separately as a second step. This approach ensures optimal seed-to-soil contact. Otherwise, many seeds are wasted because they become suspended in the fiber.

It is important that proper procedures are followed to minimize the amount of time that seed is circulated through pumps or paddles prior to application. Overcirculation may damage the seed.

Moisture:

All seeds, including wildflowers, need ample moisture to germinate and to develop into healthy seedlings. Best results will be obtained by soaking the planted areas thoroughly and maintaining consistent moisture for 4 to 6 weeks, then gradually reduce waterings. In non-irrigated situations, plant in the Spring or before periods of anticipated rainfall. After seedlings are established, watering may be reduced depending on the climate and rainfall. In arid climates or during drought conditions, up to 1/2 in. of supplemental water per week may be required to maintain an optimal display. If weeds are present, remember that they benefit from moisture as much as the wildflowers and may dominate over-watered areas.

Fertilization:

Many wildflowers benefit from some fertilization if the soil does not have adequate nutrients. Some wildflowers do fine in poor soils, while others require a more fertile environment. We recommend that a soil test be performed when soil quality is unknown. If the soil needs improvement, use a low nitrogen fertilizer with a 5-10-10 ratio or add organic matter such as weed-free straw or grass clippings, well-rotted compost, peat moss, or leaf mold. In addition to adding nutrients, organic materials enhance soil structure and encourage beneficial microorganisms. Avoid over-fertilizing which may promote weed growth and lush foliage rather than flowers.

Weed Control:

Weed control is the biggest problem facing plant establishment, and one which has no easy solution. Weed seeds are present in many situations and lie dormant, but viable, for long periods. A weedy area converted to wildflowers will have a large reservoir of weed seeds in the soil, ready to germinate when conditions are favorable. In most cases, it is advisable to consider weed control in two phases—as part of site preparation prior to planting, and as an important component of the post-germination maintenance program.

Before planting, remove existing weeds by pulling, tilling under, applying a glyphosate herbicide such as RoundUp, or by a combination of these methods. For additional weed control after site preparation, a soil fumigant may be used, or the area may be irrigated to encourage weed growth and then sprayed with a general herbicide.

In very weedy areas, the following method is suggested: Till soil or spray vegetation with RoundUp. When using an herbicide, allow vegetation to die, then rake out the dead debris. If perennial weeds such as bindweed are present, using an herbicide is more effective than tilling. Irrigate to encourage germination of weed seeds near the surface; most seeds will germinate within two weeks if consistent moisture is available. Do not till the soil again because this will bring even more weed seeds up to the surface. Spray any new growth with RoundUp. After raking out dead vegetation, allow soil to recover for 3 to 4 weeks before planting seed. From our experience, a recovery period of this duration is advisable because extensive use of glyphosate herbicides may cause a delay in germination and in the vigorous growth of seedlings.

Once the seeds have germinated, further weed control is usually necessary. If practical, pull all weeds as soon as they can be identified.

Other successful techniques are spot-spraying with a general herbicide or selectively cutting weeds with a string trimmer. Be sure to remove weeds before they reseed.

Many unwanted annual and some perennial grasses can be controlled with the herbicides Grass-B-Gon, Ornamec, and Fusilade. These post-emergents do not affect broad-leaved plants so they can be applied over existing flowers. They are most effective when sprayed on new growth and young plants. Take care to avoid treating areas with desirable native grasses or fescues.

What to Expect:

Wildflowers can provide an excellent, low cost alternative in large-scale, high maintenance situations, as well as a satisfying change from traditional urban landscaping. However, during their initial establishment period, wildflowers require as much maintenance as traditional plantings.

A smooth, weed and vegetation-free planting bed is important for good seed-to-soil contact and prompt germination. Avoid seeding more than the recommended rate since overseeding can result in crowded conditions the first year, and poor establishment of perennials. Cover seeds lightly to protect them from drying out during germination, and to prevent them from being eaten by birds. Consistent moisture is important for 4 to 6 weeks after planting.

A wildflower planting requires the same weed control measures as traditional landscaping. Effective measures include site preparation prior to planting and a post-germination maintenance program.

Most of our wildflower mixes contain annual, biennial and perennial species. The annuals, which may not be native to your area, are included to assure maximum color during the first season and to act as a nurse crop for the slower-growing perennials. Annuals germinate quickly when conditions are favorable, providing a quick ground cover and competition against weeds. Natural reseeding of annuals ranges from significant to minimal, depending on the species, climate, soil texture and other factors. Most perennial and biennial species begin to bloom the second season, but not as profusely as annuals. Therefore, wildflower plantings look noticeably different after the first year.

Sometimes it is desirable or even necessary to sow seed in second and subsequent years. Reseeding may be necessary if establishment of wildflowers is spotty or poor. It is possible to reseed bare areas with the original mixture. Loosen soil of bare areas and provide adequate weed control and supplemental irrigation as needed. Where natural reseeding of annuals is minimal, sowing annuals each spring can produce a magnificent annual and perennial display throughout the growing season.

If desired, wildflowers may be mowed in the Fall following seed set. Mow to a height of 4 to 6 in., and leave the residue on the ground because it is a reservoir of viable seeds.

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4.1 ★★★★★
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Anymuon
Battle Creek, US
★★★★★ 5
Bad auto driver install. Great mouse. Few of the left hand mfgs.
Style: Left-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Graphite
Really crappy auto driver install. Locked up my USB ports for my usb keyboard, usb mouse, all usb ports in fact. Had to reboot multiple times with an old style 5pin keyboard since the software screwed up my usb ports. All of them. Lucky I have a motherboard with an old style keyboard port. A reboot of W11 in safe mode, ripped out auto-installed software, registry keys and rebooted to regain control of my USB ports. I do not know what went wrong. Alls I know is Logitech loaded something, it locked up my USB ports and I had to rip everything Logitech out to get control again. I downloaded the software, installed it and it worked fine. I've had no problems since. I'm an old lefty and as such am ambidextrous in most areas, since there just was not left handed oriented items readily available. You had to have left handed stuff made so you learned to do things right handed. I've developed carpal tunnel in both elbows and had purchased a couple of vertical mice, one left and one right. I took the left into work and was looking for a replacement. My other two were around $30 ea. I liked the right handed vertical mouse (Anker). They do not make a left handed version. The left handed mouse is ok, not as good as the Anker. I decided to go above my spend tolerance and get the Logi after reading many reviews. It has not disappointed me. The auto-install sucked. Never letting that happen again. It is a nice smooth mouse. Fine movements that are easily adjustable. The hand position is excellent. I can use this all day without switching to the right because of elbow pain. If you have the pain, you know what I am talking about when it flares. It takes some getting used to the subtlety of the clicks when coming from lower cost mice. Soft and gently like a newborn's .... One of my big criteria for a vertical mouse is a landing area for the outer two fingers (pinky and next to pinky for finger orientation challenged). When you go to a vertical mouse, it takes some adjustment to moving the mouse since you can't really press down with your palm and inside two fingers (the ones next to the outside two fingers). It is helpful to be able to use the two outer fingers and thumb to aid in moving the mouse. You have to experience a vertical mouse to understand. The right handed only Anker goes from an inch to a half inch in the length of my pinky below the buttons on the side. This is a really nice landing area for the outside fingers to assist moving the mouse around. You can squeeze a little and the mouse glides. The Logi mouse is a wee shorter than the Anker and the area below the buttons in a mostly straight 3/4". Both mice curve quickly down to the inside below this area. I was used to a vertical mouse by the time I purchased the Logi and I have no issues with the pinky dragging the table and the finger next to pinky resting on the landing. I move the mouse with no problems. It is the subtlety of how one interacts with these style of mice. The big plus, takes a long time before mouse use causes pain flareups. And this isn't just a pain and done. Depending on how one ignores the pain, often determines how many days life sucks. The Logi mouse minimizes the flare ups. I'm thinking of taking the Anker in and getting a right handed Logi for home. I like the Anker, I'm frugal and highly recommend it for getting your feet wet. I love the Logi (auto-install sucks) and will probably ignore my frugal tendencies and get a right handed one since I don't switch hands as frequently with the Logi in the mix. Don't have to suffer auto-install either.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 29, 2024
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Lauren
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 5
Pretty in Pink
Style: Right-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Rose, Style: Right-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Rose
Logitech is a great brand, so that is why I trusted in throwing down the money for this mouse. It feels great, easy to use and the battery life is wonderful! Good quality, abd was very easy to connect to my personal and work laptop!
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Reviewed in the United States on May 17, 2026
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Wayne
Alexandria, US
★★★★★ 4
Vast improvement over traditional mice
Style: Left-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Graphite
This review is primarily for the left handed version. When Logitech introduced the left handed Mouseman in 1991, it was the first and only ergonomic mouse for left handers. Merchants refused to dedicate shelf space to it, so it was short lived. The latest version is leaps and bounds above the original and is the most comfortable and natural feeling mouse that I've ever used. At first, it was awkward to use. After about 20 seconds, it felt natural, and traditional mice started feeling very awkward. This mouse lets you keep your arm and wrist in a natural position, whether you are using it as a desk mouse or a couch mouse. The primary button is the index finger button, whether you use the left or right handed version. The Logitech software doesn't have a true setting for swapping buttons, and uses the Windows setting. So if you had your buttons swapped for your old mouse, you need to unswap them. It also means that your old mouse becomes a right handed mouse on that computer. There's no way of having both set to left handed. There's a switch to change the sensitivity. The normal one lets you do work needing fine movements, such as drawing programs. The other setting makes it more sensitive to movement, which means more mouse movement with less hand movement. It's also a good feature if you have limited desk space or are using an airplane tray. This lets you avoid having to use the setup screens to change sensitivity. The scroll wheel is smooth and accurate. It also works for horizontal scrolling if used in conjunction with one of the buttons on the thumb side. It takes getting used to, and is still awkward for me. Those buttons are forward and back buttons by default, so don't use it while editing something on a web page until you are used to it, or you could end up losing everything. A problem is that their Logi software doesn't let you set the scroll increment. It can be done with the Windows mouse settings, but you shouldn't have to go two places to set what the mouse does. Pressing the middle button changes from moving the pointer up and down to scrolling the page up and down. Unfortunately, there's no speed adjustment. The round symbol that pops up should really be a longer vertical symbol that allows greater control over speed. The mouse includes a Logibolt receiver that can plug into a USB port, or you can use the mouse directly with your computer's Bluetooth if it meets the specs. If you use it with your computer's Bluetooth, you remove the tab from the mouse so the battery connects, and then use your computer's Bluetooth configuration. That will save you a USB port. If you need to use the mouse to set up Bluetooth, use the receiver, and then store it inside the mouse once you have your computer's Bluetooth set up. If you use the receiver, plug it into a USB port first, then pull the tab. If you want to be able to use both, there's a button on the bottom to let you set it for up to three different devices. So if it's set for your computer's Bluetooth, and want to set up the receiver to use on another computer, plug in the receiver, touch the button on the bottom of the mouse (the light will move from 1 to 2) and you will be paired. You can also use the third setting for another device. If you paired it to both using the same computer, you can unplug the receiver and use the button to go back to setting 1. If you have a desktop computer, you will want to have the receiver paired, and can use it if you need to change a bios setting, since Windows won't be loaded. So it's good to pair it, even if you will just store it inside the mouse. It would be good to pair it anyway with any computer, so it's ready to go if you ever need it. There's no instruction manual included, nor do they give you a link to one in the configuration software. The QR code takes you to the software download page, but doesn't give a link to the online manual. So some of this wasn't clear to me without searching online. Their original Mouseman came with a 148 page manual and a 48 page getting started guide. The new one comes with pictorial printed on the cardboard it's wrapped in. Something in between might have been nice, even if it were just a link to the manual. Update: 18 months later, it's still working well but the battery is down to 5%. I'm changing the battery.
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Reviewed in the United States on November 14, 2022
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Verified Purchase
J
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 5
Good scroll wheel, coming from g305, 18cm hand
Style: Right-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Off White
For reference my hand 18 cm measured from the first crease after your palm to the end of my middle finger. I flexed my wrist and the first crease I used as my end point for my palm. My arms are at a 90 degree angle, and my wrist is neutral (not flexed up or down) due to my wrist rest keeping my wrist straight. Most of my arm weight is on my memory foam wrist rest. My review is based on my personal hand size 1 month update: I have not noticed any staining on my white lift. But I am also a pretty hygienic person and I never touch my mouse if I touched food. 1 year update: Still have not noticed any staining. I do wipe it with a baby wipe maybe once every 1-2 weeks though. One thing to note is that in order to use shortcuts you need to have the Logitech Options+ software installed. The shortcuts/settings you program to you buttons aren't saved on the mouse. Also annoying since the software takes a substantial amount of CPU usage (why????). Wrist pain: This might be because I don't have arm rests so the weight of my arm is resting on the wrist wrest, but I had some minor wrist pains within an hour or so. It didn't really feel like a muscle or bone kind of pain, but a nerve/soft tissue pain. When I didn't use a wrist rest, the weight was mostly the side of my hand, in particular the bony part near the wrist. That part rubbed when moving the mouse around if you don't lift your arm. Edit: After some adjustment I no longer get any wrist pain, even when gaming. Palm grip: I think palm grip would be unusable for this mouse. My fingers extend 0.5-1 cm after the end of the mouse (where the left and right buttons start curving). When clicking the mouse it almost feels like im clicking with my finger joint instead of my fingertip. With a relaxed thumb (thumb slightly curved and only fingertip touching mouse) it is pretty easy to click the side buttons. Side of thumb can press upper button, thumb joint can press lower button. With the entire thumb fully in contact with the mouse, the upper button is a bit awkward to press but possible, and the lower button is the same as relaxed thumb position. Awkward to use the scroll wheel since you have to curve your fingers quite a bit to get your finger tip on the scroll wheel but still usable. Also because of the hand angle, I found it much more comfortable using my middle finger to use the scroll wheel instead of my pointer finger that I use normally. Fingertip grip: Personally I found it feeling different, but perfect. My finger length is perfect so my fingers land around or slightly below where the left and right mouse button start to curve. When I click, the direction of the force from my finger is more diagonally down and to the left. If my fingers were a bit shorter, it the force would be to the left. I found this diagonally force feels more natural, kind of like squeezing a trigger (kinda) instead of just squeezing a mouse. It is hard to describe. In this grip, the only part of my fingers (including my thumb) that are touching the mouse are my fingertips. My palm is resting on the mouse. Thumb characteristics is same as palm grip. Scroll wheel characteristics same as palm grim. Claw grip: Works fine, only problem is pushing lower thumb button is a bit awkward since you kind have to shift your entire thumb back but it is still possible. Easy to use scroll wheel since your fingertips end right next to it Compared to g305: The Lift is much more comfortable and natural. I got used to the Lift very quickly. In comparison, the g305 felt like a petite mouse. The g305 felt hollow, like there was nothing supporting my palm. I didn't have any issues with the mouse shifting when clicking it on my mouse pad. Even on a smooth surface with no mouse pad it would happen rarely. Scroll wheel: Excellent combination of a normal scroll wheel and a free one. I can scroll down all the way to the end of reddit threads and spotify playlists in one scroll. Going back up takes a few scrolls however since I apply less force. Smooth scroll supplied by Logitech Options+ is also nice. Makes it feel like scrolling has inertia. There a lot of very nice features in Logitech Options+ like Logitech Flow
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Reviewed in the United States on September 21, 2024
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Verified Purchase
Anna Diaz
Pawtucket, US
★★★★★ 5
Excellent mouse!
Style: Right-Handed, Pattern Name: Mouse, Color: Graphite
This is exactly what I was hoping it'd be! I was using a silent click Logitech mouse before this one and I was liking that aspect, but it was kinda small and was starting to cause me wrist pain. This mouse has helped alleviate that and still get to keep the quietness. The scroll wheel is also super cool. It's kinda fun to just spin sometimes haha. It feels well made and works great so far! No issues whatsoever!
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on June 3, 2026

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