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mum seeds from plant Chrysanthemum Seeds 100 PCSThis Chrysanthemum seed packet contains 100 seeds. Mums and Asters are fall blooming favorites in the Asteraceae family, an ideal way to add a splash of beautiful colorful blooms to your garden. With numerous variations of hues to choose from, you can enjoy a stunning display of color. Callistephus is a member of the Asteraceae family that includes the chrysanthemum and daisy. On this page there is a mix of mums and asters and it is important to know
This Chrysanthemum seed packet contains 100 seeds. Mums and Asters are fall-blooming favorites in the Asteraceae family, an ideal way to add a splash of beautiful colorful blooms to your garden. With numerous variations of hues to choose from, you can enjoy a stunning display of color.
Callistephus is a member of the Asteraceae family that includes the chrysanthemum and daisy.
On this page there is a mix of mums and asters and it is important to know that all mums are members of the Aster family, but not all asters are mums.
PLANT INFORMATION:
Plant Name: Chrysanthemum
Family: Asteraceaea
Varieties: Chrysanthemums and Asters
Varieties: Chrysanthemums and Asters
Life Cycle: Perennial, Annual
Sowing Rate: 3-4 seeds per plant
Hardy to USDA zones 3–9
Full-bloom Period: Late summer to frost
Full-bloom Period: Late summer to frost
Deer Resistant: No
HOW TO PLANT CHRYSANTHEMUMS FROM SEEDS
Chrysanthemum may be grown from seed sown early indoors and transplanted outside after frost, or sown directly in the garden in summer, or grown from potted plants.
Chrysanthemum seeds need up to 16 weeks to flower when grown from seed.
SOWING SEED INDOORS
- Sow chrysanthemum seeds indoors 2 months before the last spring frost date, using a seed starting kit.
- Cover the seeds lightly with 1/8 inch of seed starting mix.
- Keep the soil moist at 70-75 degrees F.
- Seedlings emerge in 10-21 days.
- As soon as seedlings emerge, provide plenty of light on a sunny windowsill or grow seedlings 3-4 inches beneath fluorescent plant lights turned on 16 hours per day, off for 8 hours at night. Raise the lights as the plants grow taller. Incandescent bulbs will not work for this process because they will get too hot. Most plants require a dark period to grow, do not leave lights on for 24 hours.
- Seedlings do not need much fertilizer, feed when they are 3-4 weeks old using a starter solution (half strength of a complete indoor houseplant food) according to manufacturer’s directions.
- If you are growing in small cells, you may need to transplant the seedlings to 3 or 4 inch pots when seedlings have at least 2 pairs of true leaves before transplanting to the garden so they have enough room to develop strong roots.
- Before planting in the garden, seedling plants need to be “hardened off”. Accustom young plants to outdoor conditions by moving them to a sheltered place outside for a week. Be sure to protect them from wind and hot sun at first. If frost threatens at night, cover or bring containers indoors, then take them out again in the morning. This hardening off process toughens the plant’s cell structure and reduces transplant shock and scalding.
SOWING DIRECTLY IN THE GARDEN:
- Direct sow after all danger of frost.
- Remove weeds and work organic matter into the top 6-8 inches of soil; then level and smooth.
- Sow seeds evenly and cover with 1/8 inches of fine soil.
- Firm the soil lightly and keep it evenly moist.
- Seedlings will emerge in 10-21 days.
PLANTING IN THE GARDEN:
- Select a location in full sun with good rich, moist organic soil.
- Prepare the bed by turning the soil under to a depth of 6-12, inches, removing any debris, and lightly raking as level as possible.
- The addition of organic matter (leaf mold, compost, well-rotted manure) benefits all gardens and is essential in recently constructed neighborhoods.
- Plant on a cloudy day or in late afternoon to reduce transplant shock.
- Dig a hole for each plant large enough to amply accommodate the root ball.
- Remove from the pot the plant and gently loosen the root ball with your hands to encourage good root growth.
- Place the top of the root ball even with the level of the surrounding soil. Fill with soil to the top of the root ball. Press soil down firmly with your hand.
- Use the plant tag as a location marker.
- Thoroughly water and apply a light mulch layer on top of the soil (1-2 inches) to conserve water and reduce weeds.
HOW TO GROW:
- Keep weeds under control during the growing season. Weeds compete with plants for water, space and nutrients, so control them by either cultivating often or use a mulch to prevent their germination.
- Mulches also help retain soil moisture and maintain even soil temperatures. For perennials, an organic mulch of aged bark or shredded leaves lends a natural look to the bed and will improve the soil as it breaks down in time. Always keep mulches off a plant’s stems to prevent possible rot.
- Careful watering is essential in getting perennials off to a good start. Water thoroughly at least once a week to help new roots grow down deep. Soil should be damp at about 1 inch below the soil surface. You can check this by sticking your finger in the soil. Water early in the morning to give all leaves enough time to dry. One inch of rain or watering per week is recommended for most perennial plants. You can check to see if you need to add water by using a rain gauge.
- Until plants become established, some protection from extreme winds and direct, hot sunlight may be necessary. Good air movement is also important.
- After new growth appears, a light fertilizer may be applied. Keep granular fertilizers away from the plant crown and foliage to avoid burn injury. Use low rates of a slow release fertilizer, as higher rates may encourage root rots.
- Chrysanthemums may benefit from being pinched up until the Fourth of July. This should make the plants bushier, and will not prevent blooming as chrysanthemums bloom when the days begin to grow shorter, in the fall.
- “Deadhead”, remove spent flower heads to encourage continuous flowering and prevent seed development.
- Remove and discard foliage after a hard frost in fall.
- In colder regions, apply another layer of mulch (1-2 inches) after the ground freezes in the fall. Evergreen boughs (from Christmas trees) provide additional protection. Remove this mulch in the spring.
- Divide perennials when plants become overcrowded, bloom size begins to diminish or plants lose their vigor. Divide chrysanthemums in spring, just as they begin to grow. Dig clumps from the ground and with a sharp knife or spade, cut into good sized divisions, each with several growing eyes and plenty of roots. Remove any dead or unhealthy plant parts and cut back stems. Replant one division where the plant was originally and plant the extra divisions elsewhere in your garden or give them away to gardening friends. Plant the divisions immediately, or as soon as possible, and water well.
- Chrysanthemums may also be propagated from cuttings taken in spring.
GROWING TIPS:
- Many gardeners do not cut back perennial flower seed heads in the fall, but wait until early spring before the new foliage appears. This provides food for wildlife over the winter.
- Chrysanthemums make great long lasting, fragrant cut flowers.
Package includes: Chrysanthemum 100 Seeds of your choice.
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4.2 ★★★★★
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Product Reviews
★★★★★ 5
Slave Trade was not only a White Man's Affair
Format: Kindle
The book is an excellent read particularly in today's climate. Why 53% of white women would put a vile man in office is explained in the pages of this book. White women held positions of power in the America slave trade, a fact overlooked in history. These southern bell's represented as the gold standard of woman hood in the antebellum south were anything but, and they for the most part showed as much, business savvy as down right cruelty in the slave trade. They benefited in every conceivable way from this free labor market. They were no advocates for the kind humane treatment of slaves. In many cases they were as vicious as their counterpart and just as committed to a keeping Blacks marred in the system of bondage. They are in most cases depicted as silent partners and where that might be the case many white women had full command and knowledge of the value of a slave they invested in and they wanted a hefty return. In fact they used every means on the table to keep these black, men, women and children bound to their wealth creation. These co-conspirators had more than a hand in the cookie jar, they enjoyed the power and did not hesitate to support the maintenance of this inhumane institution.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 24, 2019
★★★★★ 5
Excellent book, not only for lawyers or law students
To begin with, I am neither a lawyer, a law student, nor even a prospective law student. I am, however, someone who has always been interested in the law, primarily for two reasons. First, the law is the principal formal means a society uses to try to resolve conflict among the society's members. Second, and closely related to the first reason, the sum shape, both of content and procedure of the law, is an expression of exactly what a society's values are and the goals a society sets for itself or the standards by which it ideally wishes to be judged.
I found this book to be excellent, informative, well written, and even at parts entertaining. Although meant as a guide for law students to use to prepare for the strenuous exams that are associated with each course they will take in law school, the book provides much, much more, and hence my belief that it can profitably be read by a far larger readership than its ostensible audience. One of the key elements stressed throughout, and exemplified by numerous enlightening examples, is that there usually is no one correct answer to any given legal question. Arguments can be made on at least two sides of any matter based upon, for example, a "plain reading" of the text of a relevant law and the reasonably understandable intent of those who made the law (e.g., a legislature). The authors bring out clearly such sources of legal precedent as laws, government regulations, individual case law decisions by judges, common law, government policy, and specific codes (e.g., the Uniform Commercial Code, or UCC) and show how differing results to a case can readily come about based upon arguments using the different sources to bolster respective cases.
In reality, although by minimal definition a book designed, as said above, to prepare for the taking of law school tests, the book actually also is a good guideline on how to think (not necessarily what to think) about many larger issues in society, including politics and policy issues of all sorts.
Finally, the first two thirds of the book discuss ways to think about the wide range of questions that can be posed to aspiring lawyers and introduces the reader to understanding such distinctions as "forks in the law" and "forks in the facts" (a quite useful distinction to keep in mind). The final part of the book provides solid test taking strategies that are applicable to a wide range of academic testing (e.g., answer the question the professor actually asked and avoid wasting time or effort on ancillary matters not really germane to helping to resolve the issue.) Although some of these may seem obvious once read, the tips are the type of thing that, under pressure of exams, many students often forget to apply.
In sum, I highly recommend this book to those interested in life in the modern world.
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Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2015
★★★★★ 5
Must read for 1L or Incoming Law Student! So helpful!!!
Format: Paperback
Any 1L or incoming law student needs to read this book! So, I took the BARBI Law Preview before law school began to get an overview of what law school was like and a heads up on how to do things. During this program I had read just two chapters of the book- and these two chapters alone put me in a crucial mind frame to understand the importance of what your professors are looking for. It is not just about distinguishing the right issues and facts, because there is truly no such thing, but distinguishing both sides of an issue, and of course you have to read the book to get more info, but I feel like it has helped me understand what success sounds like in exams. I am only going into my third week of 1L, but I can tell the book has given me a leg up. I recommend that you read this book before you start, or in the first two weeks (though you'll be burdened with a lot of reading then- so before is best) so you can get into the mindset, instead of doing it right before exams and feeling like you have to rewire your brain to everything you thought you understood.
I guess I'll have to update you guys once I see my exams, but so far so good!
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Reviewed in the United States on September 4, 2015
★★★★★ 4
Must-Have for Law Students
Format: Paperback
This is a good book. A lot of the trouble with law school exams is law professors are notoriously bad teachers, and these bad teachers write bad exams. Granted, this is a worst-case scenario, but if you've been to law school for more than one semester, there's a good chance that at least one of your professors has utterly bamboozled you into how he/she wants the final written. So what this book does is give you something of a blueprint and a method of examining fact patterns and exploring the question(s) so that you can simply go into the exam and take it without much fear.
Where the book fails to be of help though, is with the IRAC method. I wholeheartedly agree that IRAC is a too-constrictive method of writing that tends to inhibit most students from really expressing what they know. Law professors largely want a mechanical recitation of rules followed by mechanical analysis, so law students spend hours and hours memorizing rules with the ultimate purpose of using them in an IRAC format. It's absurd, but that's the way it is. And this book simply dismisses the fact that lazy law professors love IRAC for the fact that it gives them a template from which they can read and score exams quickly.
But still, you can construct an IRAC using this method, it just doesn't lend itself seamlessly to it, which is pathetic--not with respect to GTM, but to the teaching and testing methods used by professors. If you don't believe me, and if you haven't already done so, go look at model bar answers from your state and see if they employ a rigid IRAC formula. They don't. And so to me, that's what this book was good for--being able to write bar exam quality answers that leave room for a different writing styles and methods of analysis.
If you're just starting law school, buy this book. If you're already in and still struggling, buy this book. If you're the king or queen of fastidious, multiple, anally retentive headers on your exams, read this book and go look at bar answers.
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Reviewed in the United States on June 22, 2016
★★★★★ 5
The ONLY MARKET-AVAILABLE "ISSUE-IDENTIFICATION" book!!!
Format: Paperback
I purchased it twice: the first time in the law school, but I had misplaced it in the school library & lost it. The second time: while preparing for a BAR exam, I have realized that I material, but I was still missing issues. The book helped. Also, I did not get it on my first read & deeply dissatisfied. But, upon reading the second time & reading it later, I have gotten the point completely. The book helps to formulate what the issues are & you have to understand how to "uncover" the issues prior to formulating the issues. The book helped again.
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Reviewed in the United States on September 15, 2024