SKU: 55322576827
forest floor potting mix

forest floor potting mix Molly's Aroid Mix for Monstera & Philo

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Description

forest floor potting mix Molly's Aroid Mix for Monstera & PhiloQuick answer: what is Molly's Aroid Mix? For: Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, Anthurium, Alocasia, Syngonium, and every other aroid in the houseplant family. What's in it: chunky fir bark, coco coir, perlite, horticultural charcoal, worm castings. No peat moss, no soil. Why it works: aroids evolved as epiphytes on rainforest trees. Their roots want air pockets, not packed dirt. Regular potting soil suffocates them. How long it lasts: 12 18 months in

Quick answer: what is Molly's Aroid Mix?

  • For: Monstera, Philodendron, Pothos, Anthurium, Alocasia, Syngonium, and every other aroid in the houseplant family.
  • What's in it: chunky fir bark, coco coir, perlite, horticultural charcoal, worm castings. No peat moss, no soil.
  • Why it works: aroids evolved as epiphytes on rainforest trees. Their roots want air pockets, not packed dirt. Regular potting soil suffocates them.
  • How long it lasts: 12-18 months in the pot before it needs refreshing. Roughly double the lifespan of standard soil-based mixes.
  • Ready to use straight from the bag. No mixing, no DIY, no rinsing.

More plant-specific guidance: Best soil for Monstera, Do orchids need soil?, Potting soil vs potting mix.

Aroids fail in regular potting soil because the soil compacts, holds water, and starves roots of air. Standard "tropical houseplant soil" is too dense for plants like Monstera, Philodendron, and Anthurium that evolved as epiphytes on rainforest trees. They want chunky, fast-draining, air-pocketed substrate, exactly what soil isn't.

Molly's Aroid Mix is engineered for that gap. A blend of orchid bark, perlite, coir, and horticultural charcoal that drains within seconds, holds humidity instead of water, and resists compaction even after months of watering.

What's in the bag

  • Orchid bark (chunky): the structural backbone. Air pockets and slow decay mean roots can breathe and grip without rot.
  • Coarse horticultural perlite: the drainage workhorse. Stops water from pooling at the root zone.
  • Coir fiber and chips: retains the right amount of moisture without becoming soggy. Replaces peat, which compacts.
  • Expanded clay (LECA): wicks moisture upward so roots get humidity, not standing water.
  • Horticultural charcoal: filters salts and impurities, keeps the mix sweet through repeated watering.
  • Worm castings: a slow-release nutrient base. Plants get nitrogen on demand, not in a flush.
  • Beneficial microbes (Bacillus pumilus, Rhizophagus irregularis): mycorrhizae extend the root system; bacteria suppress soil-borne pathogens.
  • Calcitic + dolomitic limestone: buffers pH to the slightly acidic range aroids prefer (5.8 to 6.5).

20+ organic and mineral ingredients in total. No commercial synthetic fertilizers, low peat content (blended with coconut coir to reduce overall peat usage).

Plants this is for

Designed for aroids and tropical foliage plants: Monstera (especially variegated cultivars that need maximum aeration), Philodendron, Anthurium, Pothos, Alocasia, Aglaonema, Calathea, Syngonium, ZZ plant, Sansevieria, Fiddle Leaf Fig, Palm, Hoya. Anything that wants chunky, fast-draining, humidity-retaining substrate.

Not for: succulents and cacti (use Molly's Succulent Mix) or orchids (use Molly's Orchid Mix).

How to repot

  1. Choose a pot 1 to 2 inches wider than the current root ball, with drainage holes. Aroids do not want to be over-potted.
  2. Remove the plant from its current container. Gently shake off old soil from the root system. If the old substrate has compacted into a brick, soak briefly to loosen.
  3. Add a layer of fresh mix to the bottom of the new pot, about 1 inch thick.
  4. Position the plant at the same depth it was growing before, then fill around the roots with mix. Tap the pot gently to settle, but do not press down hard. The mix should stay airy.
  5. Water thoroughly once. Let it drain. Do not water again until the top inch feels dry to touch.

FAQ

Can I mix this with regular potting soil?

You can, but you defeat the purpose. The reason this mix works is its chunkiness and drainage. Adding standard soil compacts the air pockets and brings back the over-watering risk. If you're trying to make a bag stretch further, mix it 1:1 with extra perlite or bark, not soil.

How often do I water with this mix?

Less often than you'd water in regular soil. Most aroids in this mix want watering every 7 to 14 days indoors. Always check the top inch with your finger first. The mix dries from the top down, so the surface drying does not necessarily mean the root zone is dry.

Will this mix work for orchids?

No. Orchids want pure bark with charcoal and almost no organic matter. The aroid mix has too much coir and microbe activity for an orchid's epiphytic root system. Use Molly's Orchid Mix for orchids.

Is the mix already fertilized?

It contains worm castings and beneficial microbes that release nutrients slowly, but no synthetic fertilizer. After the first 2 to 3 months, supplement with a balanced liquid fertilizer (NPK around 3-1-2 for aroids, diluted to half-strength) every 2 to 4 weeks during the growing season.

UPC: 628942910210. Packaged in a heat-sealed resealable bag.

Related care guide

Why our Aroid Mix is built for tropicals.

→ Read the Soil & Substrate Basics guide

Not sure which mix your plant needs?

Take our free 60-second Soil Finder quiz → Diagnose the problem and get the exact Molly's mix and amount for your plant, plus 10% off.

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I've been writing various types of software for 10 years and was interested in learning Godot for 2D games. This book turned out to be informative and easy to follow and gave me the knowledge I was seeking. I learn best by example, and this project focused book was excellent in that regard. If you have zero programming experience, I would recommend learning something like Python before diving into this book. The book teaches with GDScript, which is Godot's Python-like programming language. There are some minor mistakes in the book, but an errata is currently being kept up-to-date on the github repository for the book. I opened a few issues for things I discovered, and the author added those things to the errata. Keep this in mind if you end up getting stuck on something and are 100% sure you followed the directions in the book. I use Unreal for 3D games, so I have not yet gone through the chapters of this book for 3D games. I wouldn't expect a drastic drop in quality, but for the purposes of this review I can't give any insight on the 3D chapters.
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Use boxes
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Love the start of this too but will not tell you how to import projects use boxes on the side of your pc
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Roger Andersen
Los Angeles, US
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Learning Godot
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simple and easy introduction to godot and gdscript.
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Jennie M. Scaturro
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A very frustrating experience
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I very rarely write reviews for things, but I felt compelled to do so for this book based on my experience. I had an amazing experience with this book for the first 3 chapters. There were some errors and things just plain missing in those chapters, but I was able to debug and provide solutions for those things. For example, some lines of code were omitted and score keeping was completely left out from Chapter 3. I have since found that errata is helpfully published on the GitHub repository. Overall I had a lot of fun working through the first 3 chapters. Chapter 4 is where I decided to give up and move on to other resources. I found the lack of guidance on level design and truly understanding and using tile maps and tile sets downright frustrating. Perhaps this chapter would be more approachable if I had prior game development experience. The author very much glosses over level design and it went from a poor explanation of the concept to just "now design your level". Referencing the finished project from the GitHub repository did not provide much assistance either. If you are new to game development, I think the first 3 chapters are a helpful introduction and they have definitely furthered my interest in both Godot and game development. However, I had to bail after Chapter 4 in search of better material. Perhaps I will return to the book after learning more from other resources.
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