SKU: 75552450502
lavender plant where to buy

lavender plant where to buy Buy Spanish Lavender Phoenix, AZ | Lavandula stoechas

$18.05 $20.05
Save 10%
No.2 Bestseller on mivipcard.com >

Pay in installments of $5.01 with ShopPay, AfterPay and Klarna

Shipping Estimate
USA
  • USA
  • CAN

Ships within 48 hours · Estimated delivery Aug 2 - Aug 7

Promo Codes Available:

For Your Every Summer RSVP, with Code: SUMMER15

Description

lavender plant where to buy Buy Spanish Lavender Phoenix, AZ | Lavandula stoechasThe Best Fragrant Purple Perennial for Phoenix Gardens Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is the most eye catching lavender you can grow in the Phoenix Valley. Unlike English lavender, this Mediterranean native thrives in Arizona's alkaline soils and blazing heat, producing distinctive deep purple flower heads topped with showy petal like bracts from late winter through spring. Compact at just 1824 inches tall, it fills the garden with a rich

The Best Fragrant Purple Perennial for Phoenix Gardens

Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) is the most eye-catching lavender you can grow in the Phoenix Valley. Unlike English lavender, this Mediterranean native thrives in Arizona's alkaline soils and blazing heat, producing distinctive deep purple flower heads topped with showy petal-like bracts from late winter through spring. Compact at just 18–24 inches tall, it fills the garden with a rich herbal fragrance while attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Whether you're planting a fragrant border in Scottsdale, a pollinator garden in Chandler, or a low-water cottage bed in Mesa — Spanish Lavender is a top performer.

Spanish Lavender Plant Details

Attribute Detail
Scientific Name Lavandula stoechas
Common Names Spanish Lavender, Butterfly Lavender, Topped Lavender
Mature Height 18–24 inches
Mature Width 18–24 inches
Growth Rate Fast — fills out within one growing season in Phoenix
Sun Full sun (6+ hrs). Handles reflected heat from walls.
Water Low once established. Drought-tolerant.
USDA Zones 7–10 (Phoenix is Zone 9b–10a)
Soil Well-draining. Thrives in Arizona caliche and alkaline soils.
Foliage Evergreen — aromatic silver-green foliage year-round
Bloom Deep purple flower heads with showy bracts, late winter–spring

Spanish Lavender Uses in Phoenix Landscapes

Fragrant Borders & Edging

Spanish Lavender's compact, mounding habit makes it a natural choice for garden borders and pathway edging. Plant 18–24 inches apart for a dense, fragrant border that blooms heavily in spring. Line a walkway or driveway for a stunning seasonal display that perfumes the air.

Pollinator & Butterfly Gardens

The distinctive topped flower heads are a magnet for bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. Combine with other pollinator favorites like Red Yucca, Ruellia, and Lantana for a buzzing wildlife garden throughout Gilbert, Tempe, and Peoria.

Low-Water Mediterranean & Cottage Gardens

Spanish Lavender is a cornerstone plant for Mediterranean-style landscapes in the Phoenix Valley. Pair with Rosemary, Salvia, and ornamental grasses for an aromatic, drought-tolerant garden that evokes a Tuscan hillside — without the water bill.

Container & Patio Planting

Its compact size makes Spanish Lavender ideal for containers on patios, balconies, and courtyards. Place near seating areas to enjoy the fragrance up close.

Best Time to Plant Spanish Lavender in Phoenix

Fall (October–November) is the ideal planting window. Warm soil encourages fast root establishment while cooler air reduces transplant stress, and the plant will bloom its first spring. Spring (February–March) is a good second choice. Avoid planting in peak summer — lavender prefers to establish in cooler conditions.

How to Plant Spanish Lavender

  1. Dig wide, not deep — 2× the root ball width, same depth
  2. Check for caliche — break through any hardpan layer for drainage (critical for lavender)
  3. Backfill with native soil — avoid heavy amendments; lavender prefers lean soil
  4. Spacing — 18–24 inches apart for a border; 24–30 inches for individual plants
  5. Water basin — build a shallow ring to direct water to roots during establishment
  6. Mulch — 2–3 inches of gravel mulch (avoid organic mulch touching the crown to prevent rot)

Watering Spanish Lavender in Phoenix

First Year Watering Schedule

  • Weeks 1–2: Every 2–3 days, deep and slow
  • Month 1–2: Every 4–5 days
  • Month 3–6: Every 7–10 days (5–7 days in peak summer)
  • After Year 1: Every 10–14 days in summer; every 3–4 weeks in winter

Drip Irrigation

Place one 1 GPH emitter 6–8 inches from the crown. Overwatering is the #1 killer of lavender — ensure soil dries between waterings. Established plants need very little supplemental water.

How fast does Spanish Lavender grow in Phoenix?
Spanish Lavender grows quickly, filling out to its mature size within one growing season. Expect flowers by the first spring after planting.

Is Spanish Lavender drought tolerant?
Yes — once established, Spanish Lavender is highly drought-tolerant and actually prefers drier conditions. Overwatering causes more problems than underwatering.

What's the difference between Spanish and English Lavender?
Spanish Lavender (Lavandula stoechas) has distinctive topped flower bracts and handles heat and alkaline soils much better than English Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). For Phoenix gardens, Spanish Lavender is the far better choice.

Does Spanish Lavender attract pollinators?
Absolutely — it's one of the best pollinator plants for Phoenix gardens, attracting bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds throughout its bloom season.

You May Also Like

  • Texas Sage — Purple-flowering drought-tolerant shrub, blooms after summer rains
  • Ruellia — Purple trumpet flowers all summer, tough as nails
  • Red Yucca — Coral flower spikes that hummingbirds love
  • Trailing Lantana — Colorful groundcover that pairs beautifully with lavender
  • Rosemary — Another fragrant Mediterranean herb perfect for Phoenix

How Many Spanish Lavender Do I Need?

Spanish Lavender stays compact at 18 to 24 inches wide, so it shines as a fragrant ribbon along walkways, driveways, and bed edges. For a continuous border, space plants about 20 inches on center. Use this guide:

Border Length Plants Needed (20 in spacing)
5 ft 4 plants
10 ft 7 plants
15 ft 10 plants
20 ft 13 plants

For specimen clumps in a cottage or pollinator bed, plant in odd-numbered groups of 3 to 5 spaced 24 inches apart so each mound reads as a distinct cushion of silver foliage and purple bloom.

Spanish Lavender Season-by-Season in Phoenix

  • Spring (Feb to Apr): Peak season. Deep purple topped flower heads cover the plant and draw bees, butterflies, and hummingbirds. This is also a fine second planting window once frost danger passes.
  • Summer (May to Sep): Handles full Valley heat and reflected heat off walls and paving once established. Bloom slows in the hottest months. Keep soil on the dry side and let it dry fully between waterings, since summer overwatering plus heat is the main cause of root rot.
  • Fall (Oct to Nov): Prime planting season. Cooler air and warm soil let new plants root in fast for a strong first-spring bloom. A light shearing now keeps the mound tidy.
  • Winter (Dec to Jan): Evergreen aromatic foliage holds through the season and gives structure. Cold-hardy well below typical Valley lows, so no frost protection is needed in Phoenix.

At a Glance

✔ Pollinator-Friendly   ✔ Hummingbird-Friendly   ✔ Heat-Loving (Reflected-Heat Tolerant)   ✔ Drought-Tolerant   ✔ Evergreen   ✔ Low-Maintenance   ✔ Deer & Rabbit-Resistant   ✔ Cold-Hardy to 15°F

Plant It With

  • Rosemary 'Tuscan Blue': another fragrant Mediterranean herb that loves the same lean, dry, sunny conditions.
  • Texas Sage: a purple-flowering desert shrub that backs the low lavender border with height.
  • Desert Ruellia: purple trumpet blooms and tough heat tolerance for a coordinated color palette.
  • Red Yucca: coral flower spikes that add vertical accent and keep hummingbirds coming.

Is Spanish Lavender Right for Your Yard?

Spanish Lavender thrives in full sun and reflected heat, in fast-draining or caliche soil where water never sits, and it asks for very little once established. It is ideal for fragrant borders, cottage beds, and low-water Mediterranean gardens across the Valley. It is not a fit if your bed stays wet or has heavy clay that holds water, since soggy roots are the one thing this plant will not tolerate.

Shipping Notes
  • Free Standard Shipping on $100+ Orders to the USA.
  • Except Preorder products are shipped in 48 hours.
  • Delivery to the USA:
  1. Standard Shipping : 3-10 business days
  • If time is of the essence, please consider selecting expedited delivery for faster service.
Exchange/Return Notes
  • We offer a 30-day return/exchange service after receiving.
  • Final sale items are not eligible for returns or exchanges.
  • To process your return/exchange, please contact us at [email protected]
  • Please click here for more details>>> Return & Exchange Policy
SKU: 75552450502

Discover Niche Categories That Outsell lavender plant where to buy

Top-Converting Item to Boost Your Average Order

4.7 ★★★★★
Based on 6 reviews
Sort
Highest Rating
Newest First
Oldest First
Product Reviews
G
Verified Purchase
GiveHerAGoodMunchin
Port Orchard, US
★★★★★ 5
Excellent trilogy. This is book 2
Format: Paperback
Bob Monroe is an OG OBE G. Love this trilogy. If you can read, read this
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on August 25, 2025
J
Verified Purchase
Joe Neal
San Leandro, US
★★★★★ 5
Great (excellent) details for the date written
Format: Paperback
NOTE: I toned this version down in 2021 – I was in a bad place when I wrote the original and there were some hostile and entirely inaccurate personal remarks in it. A few tables/charts with a wealth of information have tiny text but most of this was easy enough to read. The photos are poorly produced (at least in the paperback version I reviewed), which is sad given they would be so handy otherwise. This is a classic post-war treatise on the weapons used for ground warfare during World War II by the U.S. Army and as such the Marines. It was first published around 1947 when the war was fresh and doubtlessly numerous technical details were still classified. It was written by a man intimately involved in many design projects. The coverage pretty much explains the breadth. Examples of use are included for some weapons and detailed tables of data for many. He explains references to the "long primer" for the 76-mm gun and the 81-mm mortar T1 extension tube. I am happy to have bought it for that and numerous other details. One thing I missed when I first wrote the original rambling, a bit over the top review back in September 2015 was that the 57mm M1 antitank gun is not mentioned even though it was a key component of Infantry weaponry in 1944-45, sometimes maligned but often quite effective when carefully used as noted in many, many detailed accounts. Perhaps it was skipped because it was a revision of the British 6 pounder and not designed by Barnes men? Yet, it is an example of the issues caused by the pre war budget minders forcing the Army into desperate choices as explained later – and the using arms who decided to adopt it almost at the last minute, late in 1943. Until a weapon is adopted by the Army ammunition cannot be developed – it costs too much money and time to do so. Most of the book is positive and ignores failures, posed from the viewpoint of a proud designer not an actual user. Yet those failures illustrate the issues Ordnance had to deal with during the war. The U.S. invented the bazooka as the 2.36-inch model in 1942 yet the Germans fielded the more powerful 8.8-cm (88mm) model in 1944; and the U.S. did not get the 3.5-inch (90mm) into production-ready state until the war was ended. This was caused by offloading development onto people who went out for a “super rocket launcher” that had no place in the war. All too often, some excited designers did indeed get ahead of themselves when it came to what worked but was a bit too much (and ultimately impractical for the Army at the time). The inability to develop hollow-charge (HEAT) ammo for cannon and howitzers to reach its minimum potential (twice the caliber in penetration or better) was common for all countries including the U.S. The 105mm howitzer round was pretty good and while disparaged by all and sundry even the 75mm howitzer’s shell could (and did) take out medium armor. Barnes refers to the M3 and M5 light tank as "excellent" when the tanker's epithet would have been "tin plated coffin with a pea-shooter". Here we have an issue with comparing numbers such as armor thickness and penetration power of guns to facts; it is common to think they were butchered such as in Africa when in fact they fought well enough, flaws and all. But they were not the weapons the tankers wanted (nor deserved), and thus tanker’s complaints were valid. And, yes, they were not seen as a prime resource for fighting German tanks and hence reverted to recon and infantry support roles. Where they continued to meet and destroy German armor (but also be destroyed). Any German field commander would have loved to have a battalion of M5s on hand chasing down and chewing up U.S. troops; the contribution of the men in the light tanks in Europe in 1944 and 1945 is all too often belittled by the “number nerds” who toss the light tanks off as useless. They were anything but useless. Why were the M10, M18, and M36 designed as “Gun Motor Carriages” and not tanks? Because they were developed for the tank destroyer forces and the very bigoted officers who held the most sway on development wanted them to be nothing but “motorized antitank guns”. If they had been designed as tanks that would have invalidated Tank Destroyer Doctrine immediately. And yet, in the end, the men doing the fighting needed and wanted tanks, so they used them as tanks as much as they could, despite the open roof and lack of internal machine guns. It is claimed the gun motor carriages were cheaper than tanks (a specious argument given price varied by manufacturer and ultimately depended more on quantities produced not some arbitrary raw number) but to produce the gun motor carriages for a specialist role that was neither tank nor artillery (albeit they were used for both) was a costly thing to do. The failure to develop a better light tank in time is not mentioned even though the T7 light tank with a 57-mm gun was ready in mid-1942 and could have been in the field around 1943 (the Armored Forces botched that one). The M24 was a nice tank but too late simply because development came too late because development had been stunted badly by congress and it’s miserly pre-1941 budget. There are errors: The design of the M24 began in 1943, not 1945. The 76-mm gun could hardly penetrate the "...heaviest German tank armor." But it could penetrate a lot of armor and the myth that all German tanks were Tigers and Panthers is one of those fantasies of the war pursued by people who are glorifying the war not understanding it (most German armor was medium or lighter), let alone the myth that they were always met head-on is ridiculous. The 90-mm gun was not optimized for anti-tank use and hence had the same issues with dealing with the frontal armor of the Panther (though it could handle the Tiger) and yet was better at that than many other guns. The tendency to adapt anti-aircraft guns for anti-tank guns was common and is where Germany got its 88s and the 128mm. The U.S. found it did not need a lot of 90mms (the homeland was not threatened and what it produced was enough for its needs); there was never the demand for a higher altitude version and hence nothing like the 8.8cm FLAK 41 was developed which led to the 8.8cm Kwk43 and Pak43s; yet Ordnance built their own versions of hot 90mm for tank use. I missed the boat in my original review failing to detail how the Army’s main issue was the budget provided by Congress and politicians from 1920 through 1940. They starved the Army; the U.S. was peaceful and they had no interest in making it a military country and as such kept the Army small (and starved the air forces and Navy as well but not as badly). This crippled development; while the Soviets started building a modern Army in 1930 complete with investment in tank forces and tank arsenals; the Germans in 1934 or so; and British in 1934 or so; the U.S. politicians did not begin serious spending on the Army until 1941. Before then, the budget was all about “beans, bullets, and bayonets” and of course bodes to wield them. The Army had to struggle with what it had and put to field what was practical not what was best. Thus, for example, the recoilless rifles (used by the Germans in 1940) did not arrive in U.S. use until 1945. And yet a U.S. officer bult the first recoilless rifle to be used way back around 1916. Indeed, a brief little discussion on how the U.S. produced what it did based on budget would have opened many eyes. The Soviets produced so many thousand T34s for example, more than the U.S. – and in the U.S. the budget people were always saying, “You don’t need any more, stop building them!” As mentioned, the number of 90mm AA guns the U.S. produced was not based on manufacturing capacity but because they didn’t need more. Thus - there is a lot of information and many details many people will never have heard before. There are also many missing details concerning the Ordnance Department struggles to get things done in a very brief time frame thanks to how Congress had refused to let them do anything earlier. Dig into that deeper and you might find it nauseating the way people played games that hindered the U.S. Army in its job of helping beat the Germans. And sometimes couldn't put 2 and 2 together to get the right answer. But, they were human after all, and people do make mistakes. In my original review I argued that “If you want a politics free book you will not get it in this once, not unless you shut your eyes and remain ignorant . . .” but that is wrong. If this was a political book, Barnes might have ripped the budget mongers of the 1920s and 1930s a new sphincter for leaving the Army (and U.S. military as a whole) in such a bad situation as they did when war broke out. But, Barnes had more class than I do.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on September 19, 2015
P
Verified Purchase
Petey K
Lake Worth, US
★★★★★ 5
Good content, very small print and photos
Format: Paperback
Get a magnifying glass… the print is tiny. They must have made this book to be a large hard cover because both the print and the photos are so small in paperback. Content looks decent. It’s a gift for my grandson who will probably spend more time with the photos than the reading anyway and his eyesight is better than mine. :D
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on December 16, 2025
M
Verified Purchase
Museum Man
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 4
Printing not up to standards.
Format: Paperback
Printing and pics not up to par.I gifted this book to a coworker and he was not as picky as I.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on March 8, 2020
T
Verified Purchase
TDD
Houston, US
★★★★★ 5
Excellent resource
Format: Paperback
Purchased for my teenage son's history research project. Nice compilation, good information and well illustrated.
WAS THIS REVIEW HELPFUL?YesReportShare
Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2025

recommand products

Dimension 2EW Herbicide
23.81
Recognition Herbicide
24.61
Stomp Aqua 1 lt. – Agrizon.com
26.07
Snapshot 2.5 TG Herbicide
24.45
Activated Amitrole 400, 1L (Herbicide) – Sprayshop
23.81