SKU: 90416142224
lavender munstead plug plants

lavender munstead plug plants Munstead English Lavender

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Description

lavender munstead plug plants Munstead English Lavender(12 16" tall x 24" wide) As the quintessential culinary lavender, 'Munstead' has been a mainstay of the herb garden for years. Its high essential oil content makes it a great choice for fragrant crafts, such as creating potpourris, sachets, and soaps. Compact in size, 'Munstead' is a great addition to rock gardens and containers, and will create an easy to care for hedge to line walkways and paths. As 'Munstead' is hardier than most English Lavenders,

(12-16" tall x 24" wide) As the quintessential culinary lavender, 'Munstead' has been a mainstay of the herb garden for years. Its high essential oil content makes it a great choice for fragrant crafts, such as creating potpourris, sachets, and soaps. Compact in size, 'Munstead' is a great addition to rock gardens and containers, and will create an easy-to-care-for hedge to line walkways and paths. As 'Munstead' is hardier than most English Lavenders, it overwinters well and blooms profusely each spring, attracting butterflies and native bees to its flowers.

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Success with Lavender:

Originating in the Mediterranean, lavender prefers hot sunny days, dry air, and non-enriched, well-drained soil. While that’s great news for those gardening in the West, nowadays lavender can also be successfully grown in higher-humidity areas of the East and Pacific Northwest very successfully by remembering its basic needs. Be sure to pick a variety that is matched to your area. Depending upon your location and your desired use, there are lavenders for almost any setting. Next, follow the four basic elements to ensure lavender success:

1. SUN Lavender loves sun. Plant them in a sunny location where there is plenty of air circulation. Six to eight hours of sun is best, but some afternoon shade is fine in the hotter climates of the Southwest.

2. AIR Good air circulation is essential, especially in areas of high humidity. Lavender is not fond of damp, still air, which makes it prone to root rot. In humid areas, plant them with ample spacing, keeping in mind the mature size of your plant when in bloom and allowing for a bit extra space for good circulation.

3. SOIL Well-drained soil. This is perhaps the most important factor in success with lavender. One rule of thumb from is that the soil should be loose enough to dig with your hands, and not cake-like. You can add sand or small gravel to recreate this consistency if your soil is too compact. In areas where drainage may be a problem, mound the soil up to create a raised row or stand-alone mound.

In humid areas especially, a 1-2” mulch of pea sized gravel or white sand will do two things – it will help improve drainage, and it will reflect heat and light back up into the plant. More heat = more fragrant blooms! If you use a weed barrier, make sure it is breathable so the soil can drain and the roots can breathe. Gardeners struggling with growing lavender successfully in humid areas are encouraged to try planting Lavender Phenomenal.

4. WATER During the first year of your lavender’s growth it needs to establish a good root system. It will require regular watering (unless you’re experiencing healthy rain fall). Starting in the second year, your lavender will need less water, as it becomes the water-thrifty plant you’re hoping for, but to get there it needs to grow deep roots in year one. By the end of year three it will have reached its mature size and shouldn’t need any extra water. If water is needed, water in the morning, and deeply, to help root growth. A mature lavender plant is happy with only 9-12 inches of rain per year, but remember, with the right variety and good drainage lavender can thrive with more water.

Learn How to Grow Lavender in Detail.

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Reviewed in the United States on April 29, 2026
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stookie778
Carnegie, US
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Works amazingly, but only if you install it correctly.
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If you purchasing Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) Sound Deadening mat, to block unwanted sounds in your car, this is what you need to buy. But wait! It's not the only thing you need to buy if you want to "actually" deaden sound. By itself, it will definitely block a noticeable amount of sound, and, most likely, that's all you realistically need. But... But... If you want the Siless Liner Sound Deadening Mat to really help you take it up a few notches, to get the best sound almost bordering on soundproofing, listen up. You will have to install traditional butyl rubber first. Doesn't have to be the Siless brand, but I'm sure they would love to sell both to you, I used both Killmat (80mil) and Noico (50mil). I have a Honda S2000. It's a two-seater convertible sports car if you don't know what this car is, and it's loud when I'm driving above 60mph. I also happen to have a sound system installed as well. Other than that, the car is stock. I first installed the butyl rubber on the car's interior sheet metal. I went all out and covered everything I could. I didn't need to but I wanted to. I was extremely impressed with the results. But I wanted to go further. Not because I needed to but because just wanted to see what it would be like. So I bought Siless Liner 157 mil (4 mm) 36sqft Sound Deadening mat to go on top of the butyl rubber mats. I put this over every area I installed the butyl rubber. I had to be careful of clearance issues since I added a significant amount of underlayment, and you should too. If you put butyl rubber sound-deadening materials in 50% of the total interior area, you'll hear a noticeable improvement. If you put butyl in about 80% of the total area, you'll be even more amazed at the improvement, compared to before. I originally did all the above myself, so that's my experience and so your mileage may vary. I then installed the Siless Liner Sound Deadening mat over every place I could even going further than I could with the butyl rubber. I used the Siles Liner in areas where butyl rubber would not have been effective, such as the roll bar hoop area and large empty cavities or holes. I covered everything I could, firewall, doors, floor pan, transmission tunnel, trunk, trunk lid, fuel tank area, rear quarter panels, and rear-wheel tunnels, in Siless Liner Sound Deadening Mat. WOW!! The Siless Liner Sound Deadening Mat was the icing on the cake! Let's not forget, this car is a convertible sports car so it will never be a quiet ride, ever. But I can now actually have a conversation with a passenger at a normal-ish volume! This also means I can now have a normal hands-free phone call without having to plug one ear to block out the noise! My sound system sounds so much better! Just by going through the install process, I looked for any vibration, rattle, squeak, and noise-prone areas to either eliminate or reduce unwanted noise production. If you forget this step, the inside and outside of your car will rattle and buzz. I skipped this step the first time around. But did it right before I installed more butyl rubber and the improvement was impressive, especially inside the car. Outside the car, I didn't notice a difference until I put the last layer of Siless Liner Sound Deadening Mat. The sound deadening mat works both ways from what I can tell. If I turned up my music, as loud as I occasionally do, parked in the attached garage to the house, with the garage door closed, I would be barely able to tell the car was playing music in the garage. It sounds like it is another car, just a little bit down the street, with a very loud base. If you stand 20 feet away outside the car, the sound system is noticeable, but not obnoxious by a long shot. Get a 3 piece wood/metal roller set as well, which makes quick work of large areas.
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