SKU: 9973863666
philodendron 69686 variegated

philodendron 69686 variegated Philodendron 'Bette Waterbury' ('69686') – Foliage Factory

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Description

philodendron 69686 variegated Philodendron 'Bette Waterbury' ('69686') – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron Bette Waterbury 69686 Philodendron Bette Waterbury, still widely known in cultivation as Philodendron 69686, develops deeply three lobed leaves with a long, narrow central lobe and slim side lobes spreading from the upper part of the blade. This cultivated hybrid has unknown original provenance and was formally published under the cultivar name Philodendron Bette Waterbury; 69686 remains widely used as its collection and trade reference.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ 69686

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’, still widely known in cultivation as Philodendron 69686, develops deeply three-lobed leaves with a long, narrow central lobe and slim side lobes spreading from the upper part of the blade.

This cultivated hybrid has unknown original provenance and was formally published under the cultivar name Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’; 69686 remains widely used as its collection and trade reference. Mature growth carries short internodes, long cataphylls, dark green petioles and semi-glossy divided blades. As the stem climbs, the leaves can gain size and show the narrow-lobed shape more clearly.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaf shape and growth habit

  • Leaf shape: Deeply three-lobed blades with a long central lobe and narrow, spreading lateral lobes.
  • Growth habit: Scandent vine with short internodes and aerial roots along the climbing stem.
  • Name note: Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ is the cultivar name; 69686 is the collection and trade reference.
  • Leaf texture: Mature blades are dark green, semi-glossy and firm-textured.

How Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaves mature

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ was found in the Roberto Burle Marx collection and introduced into cultivation in the United States by Bette Waterbury.

A settled specimen can produce longer petioles, thicker stems and better-defined lobes than a juvenile plant. The narrow central lobe becomes the dominant part of the blade, while the side lobes sit at a wide angle near the base.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ support and climbing care

  • Support: Add a moss pole, plank, or textured stake early so aerial roots can attach as the stem lengthens.
  • Light: Give bright filtered light. Direct sun can mark the leaf surface, while very dim placement slows leaf size development.
  • Watering: Water when roughly the upper 25–35% of the pot has dried. The roots need moisture with air around them, not a constantly wet pot.
  • Substrate: Use a chunky aroid mix with bark, perlite, coco chips, pumice, or similar mineral pieces so roots can breathe between waterings.
  • Humidity: Moderate to higher humidity helps new lobed leaves unfurl cleanly during active growth.
  • Temperature: Keep it warm, ideally around 18–28°C, and protect it from cold draughts and chilled windows.
  • Repotting: Move it up one pot size when roots fill the container or the plant dries too quickly after watering.
  • Fertilizing: Feed lightly during active growth with a balanced houseplant fertilizer, avoiding heavy doses on dry roots.
  • Propagation: Propagate from stem cuttings with at least one node; aerial-root sections usually establish fastest.
  • Pruning: Trim long or uneven stems above a node if you need to control height or encourage a cleaner climbing shape.
  • Semi-hydroponics: Suitable for mineral or semi-hydro setups if the cutting or rooted plant is transitioned gradually and the crown stays above the reservoir line.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ leaf and root problems

  • Small new leaves: Usually linked to weak light, no climbing surface, or an underfed root system. Improve light and give the aerial roots something to attach to.
  • Yellow lower leaves: Check the root zone first. A dense or wet mix can hold too much water around the lower stem.
  • Damaged new growth: If leaves tear while opening, raise humidity slightly and keep the support lightly moist during active root attachment without keeping the pot constantly wet.
  • Stem lean: A larger plant can become top-heavy. Secure the stem loosely before it pulls away from its support.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ contains irritating calcium oxalate crystals and should be kept away from pets. Wear gloves when cutting stems if your skin reacts easily to aroid sap.

Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ etymology and cultivar history

The genus name Philodendron comes from Greek roots meaning “tree-loving”. Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ was formally published as a cultivar name by T.B. Croat in Aroideana in 2022, honouring Bette Waterbury, the first President of the International Aroid Society.

Order Philodendron ‘Bette Waterbury’ 69686 online for a climbing Philodendron with deeply lobed mature leaves.

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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
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Gabrila
San Leandro, US
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Reviewed in the United States on May 3, 2026
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Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2026
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Sahiti
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Cerakote Headlight Restoration Kit : After Using on 3 Different Cars over 3 years This is my second time purchasing the Cerakote Headlight Restoration Kit, and I’ve now used it across three different vehicles. At this point, I feel comfortable saying this product genuinely works when used correctly. Before trying this kit, I considered replacing my headlights entirely. The cheapest replacement set I found was around $150 just for the parts. Installation would have required removing the grille, bumper, and other components, which adds time and complexity. For an older vehicle, that didn’t make financial sense. Instead, I chose to restore the original headlights. Cost and Value My first package cost me $17, and I restored two cars with that single kit ( about 9$ per pair). That alone made it worth it. For under $20: I restored two separate vehicles Avoided buying new headlight assemblies Avoided removing the bumper and grille Compared to a $150+ replacement plus labor, the savings are significant. Durability 1 year+ under direct Cali sunlight (currently on year 2 and still good) First Car – Learning the Process The first time I used the kit, my results were decent but not perfect. That was mainly because I didn’t fully understand how sanding and polishing actually work. ( this reoxidized fastest under 8 months, but it was mostly my fault) I didn’t initially realize: The headlight needs to stay wet during sanding Oxidation must be completely removed before applying clear coat Even pressure matters/ 50% overlap coverage when appling ceramic Once I understood that sanding is the most important step, everything improved. Second Car (beater) Major Improvement The second vehicle was heavily oxidized and yellowed. I used the remaining material from that same $17 kit and restored it completely. The clarity difference was dramatic. It looked close to factory condition, and night visibility noticeably improved. That was when I realized the product itself is solid; the key is proper technique. Third Car ; Recent purchase By the third car, the process felt straightforward. I followed the instructions carefully, kept the surface wet while sanding, and applied the clear coat evenly in one smooth pass. The final result was clear, glossy, and uniform. No haze, no streaking. Durability On my first vehicle, the restoration lasted close to a year perfectly( I sold that car this year and it still had clear headlights), and that car was parked outside in direct sun most days. For a DIY kit at this price point, that level of durability is impressive. Final Thoughts I seriously considered spending $150 on replacement headlights( this was cheapest ) and dealing with removing body panels. Instead, I spent $17 and restored two cars. Now having used it on three vehicles, I can say this kit is effective, cost-efficient, and worth the time if you follow the process properly. It does require effort and patience, but the results justify it. I would purchase it again.
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