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philodendron billietiae vs atabapoense

philodendron billietiae vs atabapoense Philodendron atabapoense – Foliage Factory

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Description

philodendron billietiae vs atabapoense Philodendron atabapoense – Foliage FactoryPhilodendron atabapoense Philodendron atabapoense is a Venezuelan climbing species with long, tapering leaves, dark green upper surfaces and wine toned detail on the petioles, cataphylls and parts of the venation. The mature blade is broadest near the lower part of the leaf, then narrows toward an elongated tip. Mature foliage can become large, thin textured and slightly undulate at the margin. The combination of long blade shape, dark green upper

Philodendron atabapoense

Philodendron atabapoense is a Venezuelan climbing species with long, tapering leaves, dark green upper surfaces and wine-toned detail on the petioles, cataphylls and parts of the venation. The mature blade is broadest near the lower part of the leaf, then narrows toward an elongated tip.

Mature foliage can become large, thin-textured and slightly undulate at the margin. The combination of long blade shape, dark green upper surfaces and reddish wine detail gives supported growth a lean, strongly vertical appearance.

Philodendron atabapoense foliage details

  • Leaf shape: Long, triangular-ovate blades that broaden near the base and taper toward the tip.
  • Colour detail: Dark green upper surfaces with wine-coloured spotting or tones on petioles, cataphylls and parts of the venation.
  • Native range: Native to Venezuela’s Amazonas region.
  • Growth habit: Climbing wet-forest species that can be trained on a pole or plank indoors.

Philodendron atabapoense origin and mature leaf form

Philodendron atabapoense was published by G.S. Bunting in 1975 and grows as a climber in wet tropical forest.

Mature blades can be firm but thin, broad near the lower blade, concave along parts of the margin and marked by several strong veins from the base. Give the leaves enough vertical space so they can hang without folding or pressing against surrounding objects.

Philodendron atabapoense care for long tapering leaves

  • Support: Train the stem upward before it stretches sideways. Attached aerial roots help the plant carry longer leaves.
  • Humidity: Aim for moderate to high humidity during active growth so new leaves expand without sticking or creasing.
  • Light: Bright, indirect light suits the thin, tapering leaves. Harsh midday sun can scorch exposed surfaces, especially on fresh growth.
  • Watering: Let the top 20–30% of the pot dry, then water thoroughly. Avoid keeping the lower pot wet for days.
  • Substrate: Use an airy aroid mix with bark and mineral drainage. Fine, compact soil increases the risk of yellowing and root stress.
  • Feeding: Feed lightly during the growing season. Large-leaved climbers respond better to steady nutrition than heavy, irregular doses.

Philodendron atabapoense leaf and root issues

  • Soft yellow leaves: Check whether the mix is staying wet too long. Improve drainage and let the pot dry further before watering again.
  • Shorter new leaves: Usually caused by weak light, no climbing surface, or interrupted root growth. Adjust support and light first.
  • Brown patches: Look for direct sun exposure, dry root episodes, or leaves touching hot glass or a grow light.
  • Stuck leaf tips: Increase humidity around active new growth and avoid moving the plant while a leaf is unfurling.

Philodendron atabapoense is toxic if ingested and can irritate the mouth and digestive tract. Keep it away from pets and wash your hands after pruning or taking cuttings.

Philodendron atabapoense etymology and description history

The genus name Philodendron comes from Greek roots meaning “tree-loving”. Philodendron atabapoense was described by G.S. Bunting in Acta Botanica Venezuelica in 1975 and is native to Venezuela’s Amazonas region.

Add Philodendron atabapoense to your order if you want a climbing Philodendron with long, dark green leaves and wine-toned petiole and vein detail.

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As long as the surface is thoroughly cleaned, these mats will stick to just about anything. They provide my car with a tremendous amount of sound dampening and have made riding in the car 10 times more enjoyable. I drive a Toyota Yaris and although the engine is built like it's meant to last forever (imagine that), the rest of the car is not of high quality. Which means we used to get A LOT of noise coming from the road, other cars, etc. After I installed these mats which, by the way, I wasn't able to install on every surface I wanted to install them on (due to lack of tools to be able to disassemble certain parts of the interior), the noise coming from outside the car is nearly completely gone. I covered the underside of my hood, the entire interior part of the hatchback, most of the floor in the trunk / spare tire well, and the entire interior side of the doors. The parts I couldn't get to (or didn't want to) were: the ceiling, underneath the driver & passenger seats, behind the dash and the floor for the 2nd row seating. As you can see I left a lot of surfaces untreated with this product AND STILL it blocks most of the sound. To note: people recommended getting the roller tools to help install these mats. I got a few of them in different sizes and they worked O K. Not because of the quality of the tool but because some places you need to install these mats in don't have enough clearance to use the tool. That being said, for the larger surfaces, the roller tools help a lot. Also I found it very beneficial to use aluminum tape while installing these. The tape I used is specifically designed for materials that undergo high temperature changes (like your dryer vents, etc.). This wasn't because the mats were not sticky enough but because there were some places I installed the mats with small gaps between them. I'd also recommend getting some kind of fluffy insulation-type material for large spaces that need noise dampening. Rock wool, for example, worked great for me. As an example, the interior sides of the 2nd row seating walls had large spaces between the plastic interior cover and the metal part of the car wall. I'd install the mats on the metal but was left with 6" - 7" of space between it and the plastic cover. I chose to fill those spots (and spots like it) with insulation which provided EVEN MORE noise dampening.
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Works great! I have a van and it took all the noise out of the rear doors. I am almost in shock at how quiet it is now.
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